A week ago we left the girls in Waren, Germany to start the long trip home after a wonderful week of bicycling and camping in Denmark and Germany. It all began in Copenhagen. We arrived from New York lugging our bikes in large boxes to catch up with Emma, Gen and Lucy who had cycled in from Sweden. Our hotel was centrally located. By the time we arrived the girls had already found the local cycle shop for minor repairs etc. No time was wasted putting together the cycles and finding a place to eat dinner. Over a vegetarian smorgasbord (buffet) we decided to take the next day off in Copenhagen. The girls had been camping for a month solid and loved the idea of a little break. We agreed. With our departure planned for Thursday, May 26th, we discussed plans for a day of sight-seeing. First on the agendaWednesday morning was Gen's desire to see the famous statue of the Little Mermaid. Hilary longed for traditional Danish open faced sandwiches (smørrebrød) and Emma requested a canal boat ride. Lucy was neutral and Eric looked for a hot dog. Everyone agreed to go to Tivoli in the evening. We found a ferry canal tour that allowed us to get on and off wherever we desired. Next to it was a pølser (hotdog) stand. We took the boat to the Little Mermaid where the girls posed for photos with the mermaid herself. Can you tell which the real Little Mermaid is? We found a restaurant filled with real Danes (not tourists) for the open faced sandwich and afterward stopped at a bakery (not to forgo famous Danish pastries). Tivoli in the evening is wonderful. It is filled with little ponds and gardens all lit with tiny colorful lights. The rides and games add to a truly magical place. Hilary had her first ever roller coaster ride after which she retired from roller coaster riding and found a tea booth. The girls went on every scary ride they offered while Eric and Hilary watched them drop, twist and speed, mouths hanging open in wonder. We all tried our skills at shooting balloons. Gen was the winner of some great prizes (small enough to carry on the bike)
The next day found us packing up the gear, getting ready to roll out of town. After a couple of quick runs to the corner bike shop as well as to the local grocer for picnic stuff, we were off. Due to some bicycling repair glitches in the first shop, we stopped at another bike store a block from the hotel. Gen found out there that they would have to keep her bike until 3:30 in the afternoon. Thus began our day of waiting. We were to later find out that waiting for something is not unusual when bike touring. We picnicked on a grassy promenade near the bike store. Eventually, we found ourselves once again in the hotel lobby since it conveniently had a computer for our use. After a series of good strokes finding the cycle part she needed (the store didn't have) at another store across the city, we finally left Copenhagenat 5:30.
Here, I must describe briefly how it is to bike in Copenhagen. Every major street has a bike lane and they are heavily trafficked. Bikes are respected. Motorists give way to the cycles by law. Most do not wear helmets. All are dressed in their street or professional clothes. It is all exhilarating and so polite at the same time. So it was on these great paths that we departed wonderful Copenhagen winding our way into the suburbs all in a line behind Emma, the navigator. The weather was rather sunny with strong winds, but began to turn grey. By the time we got to the campground about eight miles out, it was beginning to blow and rain. Our first night of camping with the girls found us in a squall putting up the tents. This damp, windy weather was to accompany our whole journey south.
Our ride on Zealand toward the ferry to Germany, we passed through quaint hamlets nestled among countless farm fields. The small thatched roof cottages painted red or gold and the cream colored manor houses were in beautiful repair. Cows and sheep kept us company, especially a very friendly herd of bulls on a road called "old times" road (Hilary's translation). This 3 mile stretch seemed a microcosm of the Danish countryside. With thatched cottages, the friendly cows, a hillside of sheep and a stately manor house, it was a beautiful mini trip through this storybook country.
Out of our three nights cycling south, we camped twice and stayed in a Dansk Hostel once. Our days centered on breaking camp first thing in the morning, making an oatmeal breakfast in either the campground kitchen or on girls' gas stove and checking the day's route. Of course cycling was next on the schedule. Somewhere around mid-day, we found spots to picnic; then relax a bit. They ranged from a little park to a grocery store parking lot. Other daily activities included finding a grocery store and/or tourist information center and hanging around while decisions were made about where we would camp next. Luckily, we all were agreeable.
We finally got to Germany after a ride on an amazing, but typical, Danish ferry. Complete with a restaurant, cafeteria, a snack bar and three stores, you would think we were to cruise for hours, but in 1 hour and 45 minutes we were back on dry land. And luckily, it was dry land. The rain seemed to have been left behind.
We debarked in Rostock, Germany, a port town with a big main square where we found the tourist information center. There we learned of the Copenhagen t o Berlin bike way. Since the girls were headed to Berlin, Eric bought Emma the book of route maps of the way. Next stop in the city was the train station for more information, a public restroom and possibly a good map. All three were found plus a farm stand next to the main entrance where a young woman sold fresh strawberries grown locally. They were delicious!
Our next two days in Germany were a cyclists dream. The weather though still windy was sunny. The bike way took us through forests, fields and small towns. We found a wonderful campground in Schwan where we ate schnitzel accompanied by excellent beer at the camp restaurant. One friendly older gentleman engaged Gen in a lively discussion neither understood with his side being in German and Gen's in English. We played on the playground after dinner and retired early to our tents. Eric had ordered the campgrounds breakfast service. Emblematic of the German take out service, the roll with cheese, butter and jam was served on white porcelain complete with egg cup for the egg, which he returned to the office when finished. No throw away garbage, there. And so civil!
Our last night found us at the lakeside resort of Waren where we booked a hotel near the town square. This picturesque town was the ideal setting for a final evening and morning of some relaxation. It actually felt like a movie set, it was so perfect with half timbered buildings in pristine condition and cobbled streets.
We enjoyed the comforts of a good shower with real bath towels. The next morning we took some time to walk about for a few souvenirs. Then with a very tearful goodbye, we hopped on our bicycles to head to the train to Hamburg as the girls hopped on theirs to head to Berlin. At last report, they had left Berlin and were nearing Prague, another beautiful city.
